Showing posts with label garden diary. Show all posts
Showing posts with label garden diary. Show all posts

My Forlorn Front Yard: 2007 Wrap Up

EARLIER THIS YEAR, I began a chronicle of my efforts to turn my forlorn front yard into a native plant garden. In the first installment, I listed the problems with the space, ranging from a very awkward size and shape through overhead powerlines to a cheap, lazy owner. In the second installment I vowed to try to create a space that would "reflect the natural ecology of the region." In the third, I described a basic approach for designing any space according to natural principles. In the fourth, I described how to prepare soil for planting.

In the fifth installment, I described an inexpensive way to cover bare soil using native plants available for free from roadsides and nearby fields. This approach imitates nature by using what ecologists call "early successional" plants to vegetate an area quickly. These hardy plants are adapted to spread rapidly in areas that have recently been cut over, burned, or otherwise (to use another ecologists' word) disturbed--that's why they do so well on roadsides. But though many people regard them as weeds, they serve a very important purpose from an ecological point of view: They hold soil and water in place, preventing erosion, and many of them also help to prepare the way for longer lived, slower growing plants that are the next phase in the natural development of a disturbed site.

MFFY Photo Gallery

And finally,
I put up a link to an album of photos showing the progression of this space from summer of 2005, when work began with delivery of a load of compost, to spring of 2007. But that was last May. What has happened since then?


The photo left was taken in May 2007. This area was covered in cardboard and compost, then planted, in 2005. Then I made a serious mistake by neglecting to weed in 2006.

As a result, by spring of 2007 I had a healthy population of weeds and, worse still, weed seeds in what had formerly been fairly clean soil. The photo left shows the area after weeding: I was left with a lot of healthy little native plants (mostly Potentilla, wild strawberry, and Sysirinchium) and some big patches of bare earth where various weeds had been removed.

The photo at the top of this post shows the same space just a few months later, in July. As you can see, once freed from competition those tiny plants had grown luxuriantly!

The photo below gives a closer view of the native groundcovers that had taken over the front yard by mid-July. The logs in the photo (which were supposed to outline paths but were quickly overgrown) give a sense of how deep the coverage was. It would have been deeper except that I used an electric weed-whacker to shear the groundcover in areas I wanted to use as paths.


Unfortunately, I did not weed whack the entire front yard. The result of not weed whacking became a lot more obvious just a month later, in August. Here you can see that the unwhacked areas of the front yard are now dominated by tall natives, especially goldenrod and, to a lesser extent, wild bergamot. I like goldenrod, but it is very common in this area, and most people regard it as a weed. Also it is very aggressive. I came to regret having let it spread, although I do think the photo below is quite pretty.



As I look back on this year's effort, I still think the concept is sound. The July photos show that a lush, thick cover of green can be achieved using common native plants. My experience also shows that at least in the sunnier areas, these plants can choke out almost all invasive non-native plants. Only in the shadier spots, where the native groundcovers did not do so well, did I have crops of thistles, dandelions, and other nonnatives.

On the other hand, the execution of my plan was weak. This lazy owner, true to form, did not put enough time into weeding. Had I done a thorough weeding in 2006, I probably would not be struggling with patches of nonnative invasives now. Because they've had a chance to get established, I may have no choice but to go after them with--gasp--Roundup. But first I'll try a lot of digging in early spring.

Another issue is aesthetic. The front yard is supposed to be a compromise zone--wild enough to make me happy but not so wild that visitors will think I've let it go. I failed to meet that goal: The front yard, though mostly native (which is enough to satisfy me), looked far too wild for most tastes. The reason is that I don't like to use the weedwhacker: It wastes electricity, and there is always the risk of harming an animal that's hiding among the plants. Unfortunately, by not weedwacking enough I let the native plants get too tall, and I also let the naturally tall natives (e.g., goldenrod) take over. As a result the front yard never looked tidy; by fall, even though I was fairly pleased with it, I knew that most people would think that it was completely out of control.

Next year, if the weeds cooperate, I'm going to make more of an effort to keep the natives at a "lawnlike" height. Can I have a native front yard that someone other than me will like?

Old Frontiers in Pest Control


FIRST THERE WERE WILD ANIMALS, birds and predatory insects and the like, to eat the insect pests that plagued the human race. And then there were domesticated animals. Ducks, for instance.

Say hello to Duck, Cover, Run, and Hide, the newest members of the family here at Wild Flora's Farm. About three weeks old, they are Muscovy ducks. Native to Central and South America, they are already big by baby duck standards and will get a lot bigger. In fact, some people say this breed is as much goose as duck. (Genetically they are ducks, but Muscovies are not related to any of the other domesticated breeds of duck, all of which are related to mallards. Their closest wild relative is now thought to be the North American wood duck.)

Ducks are said to be a great addition to the garden if you have space for them: Like other free-range poultry, they eat lots of pest insects, but supposedly they are less destructive to the garden than chickens are. They also produce copious fertilizer. (This, with an accompaniment of long, loud pooting sounds, DCR&H have already demonstrated.) Ducks are also supposed to be less susceptible to health problems than chickens are.

I chose this breed of duck partly because they were available; a local farmer breeds them for eggs, meat, and pest control in his commercial vegetable-growing operation. (Not to worry: DCR&H will never grace anybody's table if I can help it. I am hoping to eat duck eggs, however.) Another attraction is that this breed has a reputation for being able to take care of itself. I plan to let them spend a lot of time loose outside (livin' la vida ducky), and they need to be able to find food for themselves and to fend off predators. Mucovies are strong, heavy, and aggressive for ducks; can fly well; and (unlike mallards) have strong, sharp claws and are able to perch in trees, all of which will increase their chances of survival.

Right now, they're not looking at all fierce, however. From the moment they first saw me, they've regarded me with deep, dark ducky suspicion; hence the names. (Funny how new pets always manage to name themselves.) Following the farmer's advice, I will keep them confined in their home (a huge dog kennel purchased for my Great Pyrenees dog Molly, who never uses it) until they learn to trust me (no sign of that yet). And I'm assured that, as is so often the case, food will eventually win their love.
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My Forlorn Front Yard 3 (In Nature's Time)

IN NATURE'S TIME should be a theme for the natural landscaping movement. Along with above all, do no harm, it evokes the patience and care that must be taken when working with nature, as opposed to the everything-in-a-hurry, instant-gratification-now approach encouraged by our present culture.

Looking for previous installments in this series? Please see "The Saga Begins" and "A Natural Approach."

Working with nature means taking time, because nature does few things quickly. (And the few things it does do quickly--hurricanes, forest fires--are not things you want nature to do to you.)

So the first thing you want to do when confronting a new landscaping site is to relax. A natural approach to landscaping starts, first, with knowing your property. And that means knowing it in all seasons. And that means living there for a full year, at least, while asking and answering questions such as the following:
  • Light – What areas are sunny, which are shady? At what time of day?
  • Winds – From which direction do the prevailing winds come?
  • Moisture – Where are the naturally occurring wet spots? What areas have good drainage? Which are dry? Do you have seasonal streams or ponds (dry in some seasons but wet in others)?
  • Wild animals – Which animals are visiting your property? Where do they nest or bed down? Where do they hide? What are they eating? Most wild animals prefer not to be around humans, so it can take a lot of quiet observation to figure out what they’re up to.
  • Human activity – How are you and your family members using the property? Where do the kids like to play? What windows do you enjoy looking out of? Which windows need privacy?
  • Indoor temperatures – Are some rooms too hot in summer, or too cold in winter?
  • Deadwood – Do you have any dead or dying trees, whether fallen or still standing; stumps; or even large branches? If you live in an area that is naturally forested, deadwood is going to be an important part of your natural landscape, just as it is an important part of most forests. Unless it poses a hazard, you will want to keep any deadwood as part of your landscape, even if you have to move it in order to keep it.
  • Native plants – What native trees, shrubs, wildflowers, ferns and even mosses and lichens are already growing on your property? You may already have many valuable plants that you just haven’t discovered yet. Keep in mind that some of the most beautiful and highly prized wildflowers, known as “spring ephemerals”, may be noticeable only for a few weeks a year. But it is equally if not more important to note the location and species of any mature native trees on your property. Mature landscape trees are quite valuable, particularly if they belong to longer lived species such as maple, oak or elm. Real estate professionals estimate that mature trees add anywhere from 7% to 25% to the value of a home.

Note to readers: The phrase in nature's time was inspired the title of a 2006 program sponsored by the Nova Scotia Woodlot Owners and Operators Association, which titled that year's Fall Field Day "In Forest Time."

My Forlorn Front Yard 2 (A Natural Approach)

DON'T PANIC. Ok, only kidding. But what does a natural landscaper do when confronted with a space as awkward and inhospitable as the one I described yesterday?

Looking for the previous post? See "The Saga Begins."

One conventional approach to a space such as this one would be to call in a professional landscaping service, which would lay down sod, cut down the weedy looking trees across the front of the property, and install a few shrubs, possibly a tree if requested by the owner. If the owner could afford it, the resulting landscape could look "finished" within a matter of weeks. It would also look just like almost every other front yard in North America. There would be no connection to the natural landscape. It would not offer habitat for wildlife. It would not absorb water well (a special problem if you live on flood-prone land, as I do). And it would require regular maintenance.

But as a natural landscaper I am going to try something different. Landscaping that emulates natural systems is becoming increasingly popular in North America, for a variety of reasons. Natural landscapes provide habitat for native birds and other animals that cannot survive in conventional landscapes. They also offer many of the same ecological benefits that come to us from undeveloped land; these include flood control, protection of waterways and stabilization of soils. Natural areas are relatively easy to maintain – this saves homeowners time and money! They make excellent windbreaks and privacy screens. They also tend to be beautiful and serene.

In short, I want a space that will reflect the natural ecology of my region--which for me happens to be the Acadian Forest, a relatively small bioregion encompassing parts of the northeastern United States and Eastern Canada. That means that my front yard will be converted into a woodland of some sort. And I am planning to work with nature in order to get there.

My Forlorn Front Yard 1 (The Saga Begins)

YOU SHOULD SEE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE in my imagination, is what I usually say to friends viewing my front yard for the first time. When I look at this space, I see a serene woodland garden that will show off some of my region's loveliest native plants.

But the reality is quite different, as you can see in the picture. This is no woodland paradise. At best it's an empty canvas. At worst it's forlorn, a narrow wasteland in which all the elements that once anchored the space are gone.

What's more, it's a wasteland with the kind of problems that can drive landscapers nuts:

  1. Strange shape. The old farmhouse is wedged between the road to the north, a brook-fed marsh to the east, and a pond to the south. The space between the house and the road is only about 30 feet wide, but it's about 65 feet long. And then it tapers another 60 feet down to the edge of the marsh.
  2. Power lines. A long, narrow space is difficult enough, but this one also has a pair of power lines immediately above it. Almost any large tree planted here will eventually have to be cut down or heavily pruned in order to avoid the lines.
  3. Architectural elements missing. The original farmhouse, built in the 1930s, had a front porch. When my parents bought the place in the 1970s, the porch was rotting, so they quite sensibly had it torn off. But the move, while sensible, removed a key element of the farmhouse architecture of the period, and left the house looking naked.
  4. Loss of key trees. At one time this space was dominated by two elm trees, a landscaping look that was as characteristic of old farmhouses as the sagging front porch. By the time my parents bought the property, the elm trees were enormous; the larger one towered over the house. But the elms succumbed to Dutch elm disease in the 1980s, despite my mother's heroic attempts to save them. After a piece of the larger one fell through her roof (and all but into her bed), she had it cut down.
  5. Trees that are not where you want them. Most people around here mow the edge of their property that borders the road, because if you don't the strip of soil along the road will eventually grow up in some of the "weedier" species of trees. Apparently my parents couldn't bear to cut down baby trees, however weedy they may have been, because their roadside sprouted up in white spruce, larch, and a couple of wild apples. The trees haven't been well tended, aren't arranged in any particular order, and aren't particularly pleasing to look at, but I'm not going to be cutting any of them down anytime soon. Nobody in her right mind cuts down a 30-year-old tree, weedy or not, unless she's very sure she's going to be happy with the results.
  6. Bad soil. My parents were avid vegetable gardeners but not very interested in flowers or lawn care. The soil in front of the house contains a lot of clay and was fairly compacted when I bought the place. I made both problems even worse by having the land re-graded. I had to do this in order to prevent flooding in the basement, but the backhoe operator had to scrape away much of the top layer of soil, leaving mostly clay behind.
  7. Bad drainage. See "to prevent flooding in the basement," above. The natural drainage is from a ridge to the south down to the marsh and pond behind the house and from there down to a river. Unless of course you put a house with an eight-foot-basement in the middle of that natural drainage system, in which case the water just naturally drains into that nice big hole you dug for it. Anyone for a basement swim? The backhoe fixed this problem by directing the drainage east toward the marsh instead of north under the house. But anything I do in the front yard could easily un-fix what the backhoe did. So everything I do has to be guided, first and foremost, by a conscientious landscaper's favorite question: Where will the water go?
  8. Ugly utilitarian features. Note the woodpile and the compost bin. These either have to be moved (but where?) or integrated into the garden in some fashion.
  9. Dogs. You can't see them in the photo, but they're there, they're very, very there. Dogs are hard on plants, and of course they leave reminders everywhere.
  10. Cheap, lazy owner. That would be me. I don't have a lot of money to spend, and, though I love gardening, I'm not about to turn it into the moral equivalent of a job.

All of which is to say that my forlorn front yard is the kind of project that, were I still a professional landscaper and were someone trying to hire me to do this, I might give a glowing recommendation to my least favorite competitor. But it's me who's hiring and me who will be doing the work. And besides, I have a plan.

Can I turn this poor front yard from forlorn to fabulous? Hang in there with me, and we'll all find out!





Garden Diary, Groundcovers for Free

THE SNOW HAS BARELY MELTED and there's always the possibility of more cold, but the crocuses were out and so was I. And what was I doing? Destroying what's left of the lawn and trying to get the weeds to grow, that's what. But maybe I should explain.

Two native plants that volunteer in lawns in many parts of North America, both treated as weeds by many homeowners, in fact make excellent groundcovers. Both will take quite a bit of foot traffic; both are naturally fairly tall (2-3 feet) but can be mowed to whatever height you desire. Both will grow almost anywhere as long as they get sun and spread readily, outcompeting most weeds. What's more, they're usually available for free.

One is common yarrow, Achillea millefolium. The feathery foliage is reason enough to plant it, but yarrow is also aromatic. The flowers, which attract butterflies, are flat-topped and whitish, though they may have a pinkish or purplish tinge to them. Yarrow will often bloom even if mowed several times during a season. Though the yarrow in my lawn had only just started to grow, I recognized it by the tiny green fronds, which almost look like ferns, attached to stout rhizomes.

The other is aster, Aster spp. There are so many wild asters that I can't be sure which one this is. Chances are, however, that it's Aster novae-angliae, New England aster. Almost all the asters work equally well as replacements for lawn. Like yarrow, they will often bloom even when mowed, and the white-to-purple flowers attract butterflies. This plant hasn't even started to show foliage yet, but I was able to recognize it by the thick rhizomes that have a purplish tinge to them.

So there I was, on a chilly day in early April, carefully patting the roots of "weeds" back into the soil after discarding all the lawn grasses I could find. I kept at it until the sun started to go down and the wind picked up. When you can no longer feel your fingers, it's time to go inside.

What do I have against lawn grasses? That's a topic for another day.